The Tigers’ Realm of Mt. Shigi
Inviting you to my home in the mountains
From the balcony of Chogosonshi-ji
Whenever I am in need of a spiritual boost, I head to Mt. Shigi. This is how I found myself at Benzaiten Falls this morning, a quiet waterfall tucked away on the western side of the mountain. Although I visit Shigisan often, I haven’t been back to this particular area since May, and the trickling stream allowed for some much-needed takigyo, or waterfall meditation.
What brings me back to this mountain is not just its spiritual significance but the many treasures Mt. Shigi has in store for its visitors. I greatly enjoy coming back every few months to observe the seasonal changes, the springing of new flora and fauna signifying the time of year.
Today, I invite you to my mountain home.
My husband and I on our most recent climb to Chogosonshi-ji.
How to hike Mt. Shigi
Those with cars can park near Chogosonshi-ji on the summit, but getting there on foot is much more rewarding, is it not? Luckily, there are two hiking routes to the top.
The Daimon Dam route makes for a fun trail run with its weedy, uneven terrain that really tests your ankles. Those in search of a traditional hiking route will not be disappointed at this quick walk to the highway, which, just beyond the curve, will take you to the traditional street leading up to the temple in half an hour.
The Trail Lined With a Thousand Cherry Blossom Trees (the English listing on Google Maps) alternates between pavement and rocky terrain. This is by far the more popular of the two, so if you prefer safety in numbers, this is the one to choose. This route is a straight shot, with a brief highway crossing before the short stroll to Chogosonshi-ji. Giving off a slightly eerie aura are the chairs, kids' toys, and umbrellas lining the path. I like to imagine they’re offerings for the mountain ghosts, even if it’s most likely just people dumping their garbage to get out of paying for pick-up service!
Either way, you’ll know you’re getting close if you can hear the fierce drums and cries of the head monk reverberating in the valley below.
Someday I’ll send a postcard from here, perhaps to my babachan, or Japanese grandma.
Chogosonshi-ji Temple
The main attraction of Mt. Shigi is Chogosonshi-ji, the domain of Bishamonten and the tigers who surveil it for him.
You’ll notice the tiger symbolism is ever-present throughout the complex, from the giant papier-mâché beast greeting you upon entry to an old-fashioned mailbox adorned with tiger stripes.
Tigers are closely associated with Bishamonten, one of the Seven Lucky Gods and Four Heavenly Kings of Buddhism. He guards the northern direction, but that’s not all the deity has to offer his worshippers.
At Chogosonshi-ji, you are encouraged to test your faith and, in return, you’ll get all your heart desires. How do you do that? By completing a lap in the pitch-black bowels of the main hall of the temple.
After paying an entry fee of 200 yen, descend the staircase cloaked in red velvet curtains, shutting out the world above. Dragging your right hand against the wall, begin the Kaidan Meguri, or altar tour, as you think about what brought you here. Several turns will go by before you come across a door handle. Beyond this door is an orb that holds the power to grant a single wish. Pause here to let Bishamonten know your true desire before resurfacing to the temple’s main floor, cleansed and spiritually anew.
Kaiun Bridge Bungee Jumping
If you’re feeling brave with your new abundance of fortune, you can try bungee jumping on the Kaiun Bridge.
Overlooking the Daimon Lake, the orange bridge shines bright through the forest draping the waters below. Even if you don’t choose to plunge over the side of it, the bridge makes for an idyllic lookout point and connects to the other sightseeing spots of Mt. Shigi.
Not Kaiun Bridge, but the one for cars and cyclists that you’ll see when you bungee jump here.
Tokkuri Pond Suspension Bridge
One of my favorite locations is the suspension bridge of Tokkuri Pond. Few people venture this far from Chogosonshi-ji, but this under-appreciated contraption is worth the trek precisely for its tranquility.
Here, you can take a beat to reflect on the lessons Bishamonten and his fierce tigers have to teach: that of trust, courage, and faith that things will work out for the best.
The suspension bridge over Tokkuri Pond.
Benzaiten Falls
Just up the hill from the suspension bridge is Benzaiten Falls, the waterfall I journeyed to this morning.
Those familiar with Buddhist theology might recognize Benzaiten as another one of the seven gods of fortune in Japan, known in Japanese as the shichifukujin. Whereas Bishamonten bestows fortune, faith, and fulfillment, Benzaiten is said to offer good luck, wealth, and harmony within the family.
To get here, you must follow the burgundy road from Kaiun Bridge, passing by several hotels and small shops. Interestingly, the burned ruins of a building mark the final fork in the road where you will turn left.
The signs of the falls begin to emerge as you step closer: a creek rushes past on the left-hand side, and the path is marked with spots of shallow mud. With the smallest amount of light filtering through the thick forest, making it to the quaint retreat feels like another test of self-confidence.
A small altar and seating area are available, but I like to crouch on the ground and listen to the rushing water for a minute, letting it wash over me before I return home. This is my own version of takigyo, a Buddhist purification ritual where you would traditionally stand in or behind the waterfall itself. The falls aren’t quite big enough to do it in this fashion, though I happen to think it’s the effort that counts.
I’ve never seen anyone else here, but the solitude is probably why I like it so much. Benzaiten Falls feels like my personal refuge, there for the taking whenever I need to feel cleansed.
The rushing waters of Benzaiten Falls.
Nodoka Mura
The last spot on Mt. Shigi worth mentioning is Nodoka Mura, a sort of farm-to-table experience that’s popular among kids. Located at the base of the mountain, the park is open year-round and offers a wide variety of seasonal produce that you can pick for a fee. There’s also a barbecue area, a pizza oven, a cafeteria where all ingredients are produced right in the village, and a goat petting zoo.
I haven’t been here myself, but I recommend going for the strawberries in the spring and the shine muscat grapes in the summer!
What to eat near Mt. Shigi
There are a number of restaurants and food stalls in the area, both in the cafeteria near Kaiun Bridge and along the street leading up to Chogosonshi-ji. Tenukian is a cafe serving cakes and coffee, while Abeno Ramen offers more substantial noodle dishes.
There’s even a vegan restaurant, Wanishi, which serves curry plates with rice and avocado. Just a warning, though: I’ve tried to go here multiple times and it never seems to be open, even if it’s listed as such on Google Maps. Someday, I’d love to eat here!
One place I can vouch for is Fukuro Cafe, just down the hill from the trailhead. The variety is slim, but they serve a set menu with delicious onion soup, dessert, and a drink of your choice (go for the masala chai, trust me). I recommend the pizza toast, but order two if you’re hungry because it’s only one slice. The prices are low at just 500-700 yen for the set, and the jewel green interiors with owl motifs are adorable.
Access:
Depending on whether you’d like to hike or just explore the temple grounds, there’s a few different access points to Mt. Shigisan.
From Tennoji Station near Osaka, take the JR Yamatoji Line to Oji Station. If hiking, transfer to Sangō, walking about 20 minutes to get to either trailhead. The entry points are close to each other and clearly marked with brown signs in English and Japanese, so getting lost won’t be an issue. Alternatively, you can take the Kintetsu Shigi Line to Shigisanguchi, where a cable car will take you to the top of Shigisan.
Also from Oji Station, you can take a bus to Shigisan Bus Stop, which will bring you halfway up the mountain. Take the same route along the Yamatoji line from Nara Station as well.
I hope this blog post inspires you to visit Mount Shigi, the place I adore so much. May you also get the chance to test your faith and see some fantastic views when you come!
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