Layoffs and Local Travel in Asuka Village

Stepping back in time in rural Nara

The view from Amakashi no Oka.

If there’s any proper time for a day trip, it’s right after you’ve been unexpectedly laid off. This is how I found myself in Asuka Village three days after receiving the call that I was being let go. 

On Sunday morning, I strapped on my hydration vest and set off with the husband in tow. 

After three years of living in Japan, I’m a cinch at navigating the train system. Living in a rural place like Nara, multiple transfers are the norm to get anywhere, especially the places I like to hike, and Asuka is no different. Adeptly switching between the local line and the Kintetsu lines, I felt like a native more than ever before. 

Seventy-five minutes and three trains later, we arrived in northern Asuka, ready to begin our long walk. 

Asukadera, the centerpiece of Asuka Village.

Why Asuka Village? 

Nara’s abundant greenery and historical spots were major factors in the decision to move here in the first place. From the start, I resolved to visit as many of these culturally significant locales as possible, with Asuka Village high on the list. 

If you’re familiar with Japanese history, you’ll know that the Asuka Period ran from 538 to 710 AD, during which Asuka Village served as Japan’s first capital. There’s an overlap with the Kofun Period, named after the keyhole-shaped burial mounds surrounded by moats that are ubiquitous in Nara. 

During this time, Buddhism was introduced to Japan, and one of the key proponents of adopting Buddhist architecture and philosophy was Prince Shōtoku. Thought to have been born in Asuka Village, Prince Shōtoku was a member of the powerful Soga clan, which ruled over Asuka in this period. Prince Shōtoku’s championing of Buddhism echoed that of his family, who oversaw the construction of numerous Buddhist temples, including Asukadera, the centerpiece of the village. 

Making Asuka Village even more appealing to visitors is its status under the Ancient Capitals Preservation Law. The temples are pristine, the roads well-maintained, and you get a sense that you’re walking back in time with all the comforts of modern existence available to you, including rental bicycles to get around more easily. 

But why did I choose Asuka Village for this particular weekend? 

Somewhat a motif of Asuka Village is the red spider lilies interspersed among the rice paddies, which bloom from mid-September to November. The Japanese name, higanbana, comes from the words for the autumn equinox, “higan,” and flower, “hana.” 

Asuka Village is one of the most famous spots to see these red spider lilies in the early fall, which is why I put it on the calendar for the final weekend of September. 

The start of the red spider lilies.

Our journey 

Although I planned to end the day at the Inabuchi Rice Terraces and Scarecrow Road, the day began with an impromptu disembarking at Okadera Station. 

Nearby was Amakashi no Oka National Park, a hilly, forested complex with verdant momiji, or Japanese maple trees, framing the expansive views of the journey ahead. The sky was moody and grey, but our spirits were light as I ushered my heights-averse husband down the stairways, singing “One two, one two” the entire way. 

Exiting the east side of the park, we arrived in central Asuka Village. Here was my favorite landscape of the day: lush mountains in the background, Taisho-era folk houses in the center, and endless rice paddies spotted with red spider lilies. 

Making our way down the stone path, the loud groan of an old bell signaled our entrance to Asukadera. The grounds were quaint in size, with just three altars and a lily pond in the corner, but my writer soul wanted nothing more than to pull out a journal and pen an opus right then and there. 

Nevertheless, we continued on, walking through what once was Prince Shōtoku’s residence. Evidently, he also found great writing inspiration in this place, crafting a poem worth erecting a monument for. 

Further up the road lay Asukanimasu Shrine. The grandeur made me feel as though a symphony should be playing there or, at the very least, someone should be plucking away at a koto in the corner. The silence didn’t seem fitting, but a sense of peace washed over me regardless. 

By this time, it was inching towards 11 a.m., and my stomach was growling at the idea of walking a further 53 minutes to Inabuchi to eat at the cafe I’d saved on Google Maps. Together, my husband and I made the executive decision to take a lunch break after one more spot. 

The Sakefuneishi stonework.

Sakefuneishi translates to “sake boat stone,” though the name and purpose of this stone are up for debate. Some historians have theorized that the grooves were used to make sake or medicine, and others say the rock was used for divination. Either way, this impressive piece of masonry is symbolic of the Kofun Period’s innovation with metalwork and stone. 

Luckily, our lunch spot was just a few minutes walk away from Sakefuneishi in a cultural center.

I had low expectations for this Japanese curry lunch, and I couldn’t have been more surprised. The two curries, a mushroom and kabosu curry, were rich and flavorful, complemented well by the plate of turmeric rice, pickled cabbage and okra, and soy sauce-marinated eggs. I washed it all down with a glass of rooibos and chai, along with the now lukewarm water in my hydration vest. 

Energy restored, we set off for Inabuchi and Scarecrow Road. 

Out of shape after a month spent in Hong Kong visiting family, my husband’s pace slowed us down significantly. Not to be deterred, I drew his attention to the lush scenery around us as the lazy people in cars sped by. 

These spots served as a sublime endpoint for our hike.

The largest scarecrow at the beginning of Scarecrow Road. 

The Scarecrow Road attraction speaks to the tight-knit community in rural Japan. Residents from the local nursing homes, disabled school, and kindergartens put together felt variations of scarecrows, including Kiki from Studio Ghibli’s beloved film, Kiki’s Delivery Service. I didn’t get many pictures as the area was quite crowded, but I think these creations are best taken in through the eyes, not a camera lens. Though humble in size, seeing how hard people had worked to put these creations together and bring visitors to the village was touching. 

Scarecrow Road also wraps around the Inabuchi Rice Terraces, which cascade down the hill in a sea of amber, green, and red. It being harvest time, there was a festive air to the occasion. Looking back, I’m certain I missed out on the best vantage point, but I felt content with ending the day there. 

More dirt than I was expecting, but beautiful nonetheless. 

Walking up to Asuka Station, our train pulled away just as we turned the corner. According to Google Maps, the next train was in 30 minutes. So it goes in the inaka! 

In need of a caffeinated pick-me-up, our luck quickly turned around when we chanced upon a cafe adjacent to the station. There, my husband and I sipped on cafe mochas until we caught the next train home, sad to leave Asuka Village behind but eager to enjoy the modern comforts of a warm shower. 

Why I’ll always love local travel 

I desperately needed a distraction from losing my job this weekend, and Asuka Village came out in full force to provide exactly what I was craving. 

My husband and I have lived in various places across Japan, each vastly different from the next, including Shiga, Kyoto, Fukuoka, Chiba, and now Nara. When we were younger, we traveled widely, seeking to conquer entire prefectures. Places existed to check them off a list, not experience them. I don’t necessarily regret any of these trips, but I do wish I’d learned to appreciate local travel earlier. 

Nowadays, I look to travel more deeply than I do widely. I love feeling what it’s really like to live in a place for a day or two, interacting with the locals, trying food I wouldn’t encounter elsewhere, and supporting tourism in areas that need it. 

Not that being a tourist is inherently bad, but avoiding the crowds and selfie sticks when you can is nice. There’s a sense of having the place to yourself, or just sharing it with other Japanese people who are happy to have you there.

As a bonus, local travel is so much more affordable and less of a hassle to plan. Now that I’ve lost a major source of income, the last thing I want is a trip that takes a chunk out of my savings or involves a ton of preparation before and laundry afterward. Take this trip to Asuka—we were home by 3 p.m. and I spent under 1500 yen in transportation because my husband treated me to lunch! 

I’m thrilled we finally made it to Asuka Village. Somehow, it feels like this place found me, and I hope even this written account of the place can do the same for all of you who may need a refuge. 

Let’s hear it one more time for the red spider lilies!

Access:

 

You can access Asuka Village from three points: Kashihara Jingumae Station, Okadera Station, and Asuka Station. Our starting point was Asuka Historical National Park, otherwise dictated as Amakashi-no-Oka, so we got off at Okadera, working our way east to Asuka Village and south to Inabuchi. If you’d like to see other points such as Asuka Castle or Asuka Historical Museum, I recommend starting at the northernmost station, Kashihara Jingumae Station. You can look at the map below to decide your route, but either way, it’s about a 15 to 20-minute walk from any station along the Kintetsu Limited Express or Yoshino Line. 

If traveling from Osaka, start from Osaka Akenobashi Station and take the Kintetsu Limited Express bound for Yoshino, getting off at either Kashihara Jingumae or Asuka Station. 

If traveling from Nara, take the Man-yo Mahoroba Line bound for Takada to Unebi Station, walking four minutes to the Kashihara Shiyakushomae Bus Stop. From there, take bus 52 to Asukaeki Bus Stop. You can also get off at Kashihara Jingumae Eki Higashiguchi Bus Stop or Okaderaeki Bus Stop. 

There are no busses south of Ishibutai Tumulus, so if you plan to go to the Inabuchi Rice Terraces, plan to walk (about 50 minutes from the Sakefuneishi Stonework), or consider renting a bicycle from one of several bike rental shops near Asuka Station at the start. The roads are quite hilly, so take advantage of the e-bikes on offer if your fitness is low.

As far as food goes, there’s no shortage of aesthetic cafes to try. The curry shop my husband and I selected for lunch was called Asuka Spice Popo near Sakefuneishi. While the drink menu is in English, the lunch menu is not, so be prepared to use the scan feature on Google Translate—trust me, it’s worth it! And if you’re vegetarian, no worries: they can take the meat out of the curry for you upon request.

Oh, and one more thing so you don’t make the same mistake I did—go to Inabuchi Rice Terraces Viewpoint for the best views on the way to Scarecrow Road. I’ll have to make sure I don’t miss this spot next time I go!

Like many places in Nara, the trains from Asuka Station are infrequent, but luckily, there is another cafe nearby to wait at while sipping a cafe mocha and reminiscing on your trip.

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